New designer. Phoebe English

The first time I heard of Phoebe English was about half a year ago. New talent from London, promising designer, black rags so much loved by the fashion insiders - the works. I heard and forgot. A few days ago I happened to be at a press day of the PR agency that represents English and I saw the garments in a real life. And fell head over toes for them! My favourite combo of nude and black with splashes of white. It was the Autumn/Winter 2015 collection and the materials seen on the rail were tule, rubber, leather and something that looked like a sofa upholstery. In fact, her first collection - Master graduation show at the Central Saint Martin's College  - was made of hair and instantly grabbed attention of all fashion critics including Suzy Bubble of In just over a year she was invited to sell at the Dover Street Market in London and to decorate the window of the store. The glass ball made by English for the project is now the focal point of the English' PR company.

What I loved about English is the philosophy behind the brand. The designer believes that t is not decoration that makes her garments special but the construction. And she studies this side of the design from season to season. Each piece of clothing is like a deconstruction of our conception of what a dress or a jacket should look like. Unfinished, edgy, as if made of pieces that are about to be put together, the clothes were left undone. Is it because of the fact that she is not experienced enough to think the whole collection through or is it some kind of a statement - I don't know. But in my opinion, that is what makes English' designs so special. And of course it is hard to imagine wearing a dress made of hair worn in a real life but the last few collection are more than wearable. And I think it is very important. We can believe that fashion is art and design is supposed to break stereotypes and challenge the boundaries, but if you can't actually wear it - what's the sense?

The last two collections attracted much attention of the media, featuring her story in such important magazines as Vogue UK and Elle UK, not to mention the variety of alternative magazines always on a lookout for new names. Just recently English' creation, a metal crown, appeared on the cover of Garage, a magazine about fashion and art edited by Dasha Zhukova, worn by Cara Delevigne.

Autumn/Winter 2015
Autumn/Winter 2015
Spring/Summer 2014
Spring/Summer 2014
Spring/Summer 2012
Autumn/Winter 2011
Phoebe English

You can buy Phoebe English at Dover Street Market in London, H. Lorenzo in LA and I.T in Hong Kong.

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